Where Washington Magazin February 2001

Petits Plats -- The Name Refers Not To Some Trendy

French style tapas but to a host's intensely flavored, special "gifts" on a plate. So explains Cecile Darricarrere, who with

her brother partner Frederic opened their bistro last spring in a former townhouse in Woodley Park. With the Darricarreres

at the door and Ournar Sy in the kitchen, this neighborhood spot has drawn serious diners.

On mellow citron walls hang trompe Foeil, flower laden 11 shelves." Bentwood chairs hug small tables. Beaded table lights glow; metal 11 vines" curl across the ceiling; polished oak floors, discovered under linoleum and brought back to their original lustre, radiate warmth. Diners choose "parlor" seats with street views or ascend a stair (lit by French glass) to rooms with fireplaces.

Back to chef Sy. The Senegal native trained with Jean Louis PaHadin and Yan­ nick Cam, and it shows. Foie gras, earthy

yet light as air, surrounded by crescents of apple, arrives on a flowered plate. Its match: Sauterne Chateau Dodon (at $9.50

a glass, as luxe as its taste).

Sy's winter menu features an appetizer of mussels (au gratin) and escargot­ infused risotto, boudin noir with mashed potatoes, veal cheeks and a de rigueur cas­ soulet. His entr6es monkfish with thyme, scallops with Parmesan emulsion,

calf's liver with raspberry vinegar and olives illustrate a light touch even as he combines intense flavors.